K is For Knitting – Here and There, Now and Then

Finding a Needle in the Haystack

Published on February 22, 2017February 24, 2017 by KVPosts7 Comments

Finding your favorite needle is a matter of trial and error, and the hunt can get quite expensive if that trial and error means purchasing a variety of needles to try out different the options. At the 2017 Knitting Pipeline Retreat, hosted by Paula Emons-Fuessle of the Knitting Pipeline Podcast along with her collaborators Bronwyn, Sarah, and many others, I held a break out session for a needle tasting. Needles were limited to circular options that are readily available online or in local yarn shops, but there were still plenty of options to sample. With what I had in my stash, some quick purchases, and a few borrowed from my knitting group, we managed to cobble together a tasting room with 24 different needles.

The Tasting Room

I set up three tables with place cards, rating sheets, and needles prepared with ready-to-knit swatches. Two tables had swatches prepared to knit flat, one table with metal needles and one with needles made from other materials, including wood, composite, and bamboo. The third table was set up with swatches to work magic loop in the round using smaller needles typically used for sock knitting. Knitters were given the opportunity over 2 hours to visit the break out room and sample the needles. They were asked to rate the needles from 1 (not for me) to 5 (LOVE this needle). A copy of the session handout and list of needles is available here and a copy of the rating sheet is available here. For those unfamiliar with magic loop, I created a quick video tutorial in advance and offered to demonstrate the technique at the start of the session.

Needle Types

In addition to the materials used to make needles—metal, wood, bamboo, plastic, and so on—there are 3 basic types of needles: straights, double pointed needles (DPNs), and circular needles. With circular needles, it is not just the material, texture, and point of the needle to consider but also the cable type, cable flexibility, and the join where the cables meet the needles. To further complicate matters, a circular needle can be fixed or interchangeable. The way the cord attaches to the needles in interchangeables varies; some use a tightening mechanism, such as the little key used by Knitpicks. Some, such as Addi and Denise, use a twist and click approach. Some, such as Dyakcraft and Signature, use a twist and tighten approach with a recommendation to use a large rubber band or disk to assist in hand tightening. The reliability of the connection can be an issue—especially with the twist and tighten—and can make an otherwise lovely needle a source of frustration if the connection fails during use. Some brands are available in either fixed or interchangeable formats, some in only one or the other. This session was limited to circular needles, but included both fixed and interchangeable needles.

Caveats

Before I list the rankings of the needles, a couple of caveats.

The ranking is based on the average response of the 5-point rating (i.e., sum of the ratings divided by the number of knitters rating the needle). Looking at an average rating is one measurement, but the details show that individual responses can vary quite a bit. There was also more interest in some needles than in others, which meant some of the averages were calculated from more ratings than others (as few as 4 and as many as 15). Details for each of the needles are listed below in alphabetical order, including individual ratings, comments, and my thoughts.

Secondly, were this a funded exercise, I would have made sure that all needles were the same size and set up with swatches using identical yarn. As it was, the tasting was cobbled together with what I had available in my yarn bin and needle collection. Also, I would have gathered information about the people testing, such as their knitting experience and their needle preferences before the tasting, and of course had a lot more people in order to get a lot more data.

Finally, were this a controlled research study, I would not have left a rating form next to each needle. Although people love what they love and have their needle loyalties, seeing the previous ratings and comments of others on the rating form no doubt influenced their responses to some degree. It would have been ideal for each person to have their own form, have had the time (and patience) to test every needle, and to be unaware of the opinion of others. Of course, with all the chattering and sharing that was going on, having it be more controlled would not have been nearly as fun. We were, after all, attending a retreat not in a focus group.

Bottom line, this is not professionally conducted research, it is a lot of fun loving knitters at a knitting retreat trying out needles, sharing their thoughts, and having a good time. It is also not a prescription for which needles you should be using. Whether your favorite needle is the last place Denise or the first place Turbo Rocket, what is important is that you find the needles that work for you and that you enjoy using. My own ranking would be somewhat different than the one that resulted from the group’s ratings, but I think it is a decent representation of what people generally liked and a good indicator of needles that are worth trying out for yourself if you have not already done so.

For all that, here is what a group of knitters collectively decided were the highest rated needles.

Rankings Based on Average Ratings

1	Skacel: Addi Turbo Rockets, US Size 2 (2.75 mm)
2	ChiaoGoo: Red Lace, US Size 5 (3.75 mm)
3	Skacel: Addi Turbo Rockets, US Size 4 (3.5 mm)
4	Signature Needle Arts: Stilettos with 5” shaft, US Size 6 (4 mm)
5	KnitPicks: Rainbow Wood, US Size 8 (5 mm)
6	Dyakcraft: Heavy Metal interchangeables, US Size 1 (2.25 mm)
7	Knitter’s Pride: Dreamz, US Size 4 (3.5 mm)
8	Signature Needle Arts: Stilettos with 6” shaft, US Size 6 (4 mm)
9	Skacel: Addi Turbo, US Size 5 (3.75 mm)
10	Chiagoo: Red Lace, US Size 2 (2.75 mm)
11	KnitPicks: Nickel Plated, US Size 8 (5 mm)
12	Signature Needle Arts: Socks w/ 6” Stiletto shaft, US Size 1 (2.25 mm)
13	KnitPro: Zing, US Size 2.5 (3 mm)
14	HiyaHiya: Stainless Steel, US Size 0 (2 mm)
15	Skacel: Addi Turbo, US Size 5 (3.75 mm)
16	HiyaHiya: Bamboo, US Size 5 (3.75 mm)
17	Kollage: Square – Firm cable, US Size 2.5 (3 mm)
18	Clover: Takumi , US Size 5 (3.75 mm)
19	Lantern Moon: Destiny Circulars, US Size 10 (6 mm)
20	Knitter’s Pride: Dreamz, US Size 0 (2 mm)
21	Knitter’s Pride: Karbonz, US Size 6 (4 mm)
22	Dyakcraft: Heavy metal, US Size 3 (3.25 mm)*
23	Knitter’s Pride: Trendz, US Size 5 (3.75 mm)
24	Kollage: Square – Firm Cable, US Size 1 (2.25 mm)
25	Denise: Denise, US Size 7 (4.5 mm)
	* See needle description for notes on this rating

Ratings Details by Needle

Chiagoo: Red Lace
Type: Metal fixed
Size: US 2 (2.75 mm) and US 5 (3.75 mm)
Swatch type: magic loop (smaller needle) and flat (larger needle)
Rating: Overall average rating of 4.52 for both sizes combined
US 2 (2.75 mm) Ranked 10^th with an average rating of 4.35 (range 3 – 5)
US 5 (3.75) Ranked 2^nd with an average rating of 4.68 (range 4 -5)

This needle was tested knitting flat using US size 5 (3.75 mm) and with magic loop using US size 2 (2.75 mm); the larger needle came in at an impressive 2^nd and the smaller 9^th in the rankings. The needle has a nice amount of glide without being too slippery, a sharp tip, a good join, and a uniquely smooth yet strong cable. However, I find the cable a bit stiff when it comes to using magic loop and reach for other options when doing projects with that method. It is great for knitting in the round with 2 circulars and works really well for anything other than magic loop. My problem with the magic loop was with getting ladders between the needles; I just could not consistently tighten the stitches with the stiff cord creating counter pressure. Otherwise, I am more than happy to knit with this needle. This is among my favorites and it comes in at a strong 4.5 in my ratings.

Comments about the US 2 (2.75 mm)

Sharp, smooth, smooth join.
Like cord & tip
Smooth & fast knitting
Great points, cord is stiff but doesn’t have a kinky memory so pretty good for magic loop
Smooth. Nice cable. Easy to move stitches on and off the needles when “switching sides”
I like the cord
I love the cable. Nice needles
Smooth but cord too rigid for magic loop
Love the flexible cord
Smooth sharp point

Comments about the US 5 (3.75 mm)

Nice, sharp, solid cable, good joins
Love the point and the cord
Very nice point, nice stiff cord
Sharp, slick
My favorite needles
So smooth, perfect points
Love
Nice joints
Smooth but the cable feels so stiff
Nice point, nice join, stiff cable

	US 2 (2.75 mm)		US 5 (3.75 mm)		Overall (both)
Rating	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg
5	4	40%	7	63.64%	11	52.38%
4.5	1	10%	1	9.09%	2	9.52%
4	4	40%	3	27.27%	7	33.33%
3	1	10%	—	—	1	4.76%
Overall	10	100%	11	100%	21	100%
Average		4.35		4.68		4.52

Clover: Takumi
Type: bamboo fixed
Size: US 5 (3.75 mm)
Swatch type: flat
Rating: ranked 18^th with an average score of 3.5 (range: 2- 4)

I bought this needle specifically for the testing and admit to being surprised. I had low expectations but found it fairly comfortable and easy to use with a smooth needle and a decent join. If the zombie apocalypse struck and no other needles were available, I could knit with these. One of the testers told me that the tips tend to get dull after use. I would give them a solid 3 when new.

Comments

Smooth, nice join Very light could be both a + or a – point. Easy on hands hard to control
Needles are smooth and easy to knit with, cord is rough and stiff
Like sharpness of needle. Not a fan of the cord. Like bamboo, good price
Cord too stiff for me

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	4	3	75%
	2	1	25%
Overall	3.50	4	100%

Denise: Denise convertibles
Type: Plastic interchangeable
Size: US 7 (4.5 mm)
Swatch type: flat
Rating: Ranked 25^th with an average score of 1

These plastic interchangeable needles came in last place at 25. The cords are large and stiff but the joins are not terrible. They have a twist and lock mechanism that is pretty reliable. They were quite innovative when they first came out and have since been eclipsed by other interchangeable options. It was early on in my knitting career when I found out about these and was so excited to have all the needles I would ever need in a neat little plastic case. I was so excited that I bought a set for both my daughter and mother, and that is all they ever use to this day. I have moved on but holding them brings back a certain comfortable familiarity. They might be a decent choice for beginning knitters; they are so solid and grippy with a more rounded tip. I would rate them a 2, but that is being kind for old time’s sake; it would be more honest to concur with everyone else and give them a 1. Sometimes things are better left in the past.

Comments

These are terrible
Squeaky and too flexible
Too soft tips, too flimsy cord
Bad join, don’t move
Like knitting with a “toy” Cord too stiff, not very good point
Cord stiff and needles not pointed enough

100% of the 7 people who tried this needle rated it a 1.

Dyakcraft: Heavy metal

Type: Metal interchangeable
Size: US 1 (2.25 mm) and US 3 (3.25 mm)
Swatch type: magic loop (smaller needle) and flat (larger needle)
Rating: Overall average rating of 3.56 for both sizes combined
US 1 (2.25) Ranked 6^th with an average rating of 4.42 (range 3 – 5)
US 3 (3.25 mm) Ranked 22^nd with an average rating of 2.87 (range 1 – 4)
[alternative score: Ranked 19th with an average rating of 3.36 (range 3 – 4), see below]

I have always expected to love Dyakcraft needles, some of their lines can be so elusive that I have called them unicorn needles. After waiting almost 2 years for Darn Pretty’s I realized that, although they were gorgeous, I still went for my Signatures and they wasted away until I eventually sold them. Likewise, I fell in love with the look of the Lavender Lights but found they were not that comfortable in my hands and they too languished in their case unused. In between those purchases, I bought a set of the Heavy Metals because they came in the smaller sizes that Signature did not offer.

I really like the feel of the needles. The more they are used, the smoother they become. The points are really nice and the yarn passes nicely over the join. Unfortunately, the twist mechanism for connecting is spotty and the cords are quite stiff and awkward to work with. Even with tightening these with a rubber gripper, the needles frequently come loose and, although they do not completely disconnect, the loosening creates a groove that catches the yarn. Although the cord swivels, I invariably develop a kink where the cord meets the join. That kinky cord created some discussion on how to smooth out a cord, one person described how she boils her cords in an iron frying pan, being careful not to touch the sides. Another person said she wears cords about her neck to warm and soften them. I suggested storing cords by hanging them rather than winding them back into a package or case. The bend in the cord develops as I knit, attempted repairs have to wait until the project is finished.

Interestingly enough, the undoing of the larger needle resulted in the undoing of the scores for that needle. Late in the testing the needle came undone and—without a rubber disk on hand in the tasting room—I could not hand tighten it enough to keep it from immediately loosening again. From that moment when the needle came loose, the ratings went from 3’s and 4’s to 1’s and 2’s. If I threw out bottom scores, ranking for the bottom needle would be 19^th with an average rating of 3.36 rather than 21^st with an average rating of 2.87 and the overall score would be 3.91 rather than 3.56. I did not throw out the scores, it is an unfortunate flaw with these needles but I think they were rated rather harshly as a result.

My score for these needles is 4, it would be a 5 if not for the cord and the connections.

Comments on US 1 (2.25 mm)

Flexible cord. Nice point. Slick
Nice points slick. Good cord
Smooth joins. Nice cable
Very nice and sharp. Not heavy at all.
Feel substantial but not too heavy
Nice firm points, not bendy, cable is too stiff, otherwise would be perfect.
Nice feel
Nice, easy to use, cord is just right
Can feel friction when I rub the needles together to stitch. Cord is a bit to flexi
When needles rub they scrape a bit. Would drive me crazy. Like fingers on a chalkboard.

Comments on US 3 (3.25 mm)

I like the heavy feel.
Nice point, smooth
Don’t like the join
Not a fan of the weight
They make too much noise
Like tips. Cables too stiff
Too heavy, kinky cord
Nice point, OK cord, too expensive
Cord too firm, too pointy
Cord too stiff
Join loose, cord too twisty
Awkward to knit with

	US 1 (2.25)		US 3 (3.25)		Overall (both)
Rating	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg
5	5	41.67%	—	—	5	18.52%
4.5	3	25.00%	—	—	3	11.11%
4	2	16.67%	4	26.67%	6	22.22%
3.5	1	8.33%	—	—	1	3.70%
3	1	8.33%	7	46.67%	8	29.63%
2	—	—	2	13.33%	2	7.41%
1	—	—	2	13.33%	2	7.41%
Overall	12	100%	15	100%	27	100%
Average		4.42		2.87		3.56

HiyaHiya: Bamboo
Type: Bamboo fixed
Size: US 5 (3.75 mm)
Swatch type: flat
Rating: ranked 16^th with an average score of 3.70 (range 3 – 4)

I bought these for the tasting to add to the-alternative-to-metal options. I liked these better than the Clover Bamboo and, although I am not a fan of non-metal needles in general, could definitely see myself using these with slick yarns. There is some grab on the needle surface, the cord is stiff enough that the yarn transitions smoothly from cord to needle, and the points are nice and pointy. In general I would not like to use these for wool or cotton yarns. I would give them a 3.5 for general use but a 4 for use with slinky yarns; good to have in my arsenal when I need them but definitely a special purpose tool.

Comments

Nice, for bamboo
Don’t use wood often, but I would use there
Pointy enough & smooth sliding
Nice & smooth, nice join, too stiff cord
Smooth wood and pointy enough
Smooth, nice cord
Nice cord, sharp points
Nice smooth wood. Would be good with a silk yarn.
Smoother than clover not as smooth as Dreamz or Rainbow wood
Very sticky. I’d lend to a beginner & keep them for very slick yarns

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	4	7	75%
	3	3	25%
Overall	3.70	10	100%

HiyaHiya: Stainless Steel
Type: Metal (stainless) fixed
Size: US 0 (2 mm)
Swatch type: magic loop
Rating: ranked 14^th with an average score of 3.92 (range 3 – 5)

I picked these up when I wanted to do socks in magic loop for traveling. I found the Chiagoo Red Lace cable too stiff for doing magic loop and had a bit more luck with these. I ended up using Addi Turbo Rockets, but these were definitely worth a try. I prefer the texture of some of the other top rated needles, but these were fine, the tips are sharp enough, and the join is smooth. The cord is firm for carrying stitches, maybe a touch too firm for magic loop. Not one of my favorites but definitely a good option, particularly for flat knitting. I give these a 4.

Comments

Nice & sharp, smooth joins
Sharp, easy to use, smooth knitting
Cord stiffer than I like
Cord stiffer than I like (same)
Cord a bit stiff. Very smooth needle. Nice for loops with 2 sets of needles
Very smooth
Sharp, smooth join but cable too rigid for magic loop
Slick, great points, cord has too much memory for magic loop
Quite Sharp. Cord too stiff
Nice sharp point but stiff cord
Cord too stiff

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	5	2	16.67%
	4	7	58.33%
	3	3	25.00%
Overall	3.92	12	100%

KnitPicks: Nickel-plated
Type: metal (nickel plated) interchangeable
Size: US 8 (5 mm)
Swatch type: flat
Rating: ranked 11^th with an average score of 4.33 (range 3 – 5)

Cords on the KnitPicks interchangeables are connected with a key to tighten the join. It usually holds fairly well, although it is always a good idea to check the tightness of the joint after knitting a while. Unfortunately, I have found the quality control on the Knitpicks is a bit spotty. The cords themselves can detach from the join, which has nothing to do with the mechanism used to connect cords and needles. These needles were borrowed for the tasting, I had not used the metal KnitPicks before. I thought they felt light and the surface was fairly smooth, but I was not terribly fond of how the yarn glided over the join. With the quality issues that plague KnitPicks, I give these a 2.

Comments

This is my join!
Comfortable, cord needs to loosen up
Not big fan of metal, but nice

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	5	3	50.00%
	4	2	33.33%
	3	1	16.67%
Overall	4.33	6	100%

KnitPicks: Rainbow Wood
Type: wood interchangeable
Size: US 8 (5 mm)
Swatch type: flat
Rating: ranked 5^th with an average score of 4.5 (range 3 – 5)

These came in quite high on the ratings but my experience with their quality and reliability leads me to give these a much lower rating of 2. With me, it is personal. When I was on the outer edges of a circular lace shawl the cord pulled out of assembly and I did not notice it right away. All interchangeables have the risk of coming loose or undone, but this was the cord itself separating from the connector. After that very painful incident, I was wary and used these needles only on smaller projects; it did happen again but with less at risk. Still, these were one of the first interchangeable options and, after starting out with Denise, I was so excited when I first got these. The joins and cord, when they work, are pretty good, but I think there are better options for the needle surface. I gave mine away and had to borrow this needle for the tasting.

Comments

I don’t love bamboo needles but these are very nice. Have a “slickness” similar to metal
Sharp and slick, warm in my hand
Nice needle, light and easy to use
Best wood needle – Smooth and slick for wood. Could be pointier but great for wood.
Lovely interchangeable. Smooth, pretty 🙂
Not bad – but the join is not smooth
Maybe a little too sticky. Very light in hand
Like the tips but doesn’t slide along. Not fond of the join.

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	5	5	62.50%
	4	2	25.00%
	3	1	12.50%
Overall	4.50	8	100%

KnitPro: Zing
Type: metal fixed
Size: US 2.5 (3 mm)
Swatch type: flat
Rating: ranked 13^th with a score of 3.96 (range 1 – 5)

I was so excited to find out about these beautiful needles and ordered DPNs from Scotland. They were nice, and so lovely in all the vivid colors. Our knitting group ordered some of the circulars and we were disappointed. The larger the needle, the larger the tip; everything is enlarged proportionally so what is perfectly small and sharp in the smaller size is bigger and blunter in the larger. Still, that would be forgivable if there were better quality control with the joins; some are fine and some are not. I absolutely cannot use them, I have started a couple of projects and grew so frustrated with the yarn getting caught in some of the joins that—gauge be damned—I ripped everything out and started again with different needles. It is so lovely to think that needles that look similar to the beautiful Signatures could be a less expensive option, but in this case you get what you pay for. These needles will not be put back into my stash. I give these a 1.5, the cord is not bad, the needle itself is smooth if inconsistent from size to size with the points, but that join is a deal breaker.

Comments

Nice to work with
Very nice. Feels very similar to Signatures
Very nice. Smooth.
Cord has a lot of memory, but otherwise great
Not sure of cable, but very smooth
OK, I probably wouldn’t buy them
Great tips
A decent needle for the price
Nice tip, cord OK
Join on one side catches yarn. Other side is smooth. Good point though.
Nice feel of needle and tip
Hate join

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	5	4	28.57
	4.5	2	14.29
	4	4	28.57
	3.5	1	7.14
	3	2	14.29
	1	1	7.14
Overall	3.96	14	100%

Knitter’s Pride: Dreamz
Type: wood fixed
Size: US 0 (2 mm) and US 4 (3.5) mm
Swatch type: magic loop (smaller needle) and flat (larger needle)
Rating: Overall average rating of 3.92 for both sizes combined
US 0 (2 mm) Ranked 20^th with an average rating of 3.25 (range 2 -5
US 4 (3.5 mm) Ranked 7^th with an average rating of 4.41 (range 4 – 5)

These are similar to the KnitPicks wooden needles, although I have never had any quality issues with the cord disconnecting from the join as I have had with the KnitPicks. The wood is nice and smooth and the points are nice, although I find the yarn struggles a bit over the join, these are not a bad option. I like that different sizes are different colors. The smaller US-0 feels a bit flimsy in wood, but to be fair I have never broken any of these; I just feel more comfortable using metal in smaller sizes. If the yarn slid over the join more smoothly I would give these a 4, but I am going with a 3.5 on these.

Comments US 0 (2 mm)

My absolute favorite & go to for large projects. Good joins, points, and overall feel.
Nice tip, nice point, flexible cable, smooth join
Nice join. Stiffer cable. Good point.
Perfectly nice. Don’t like wood for socks – too slow
Feels like I would snap the needle too easily. Like Point
Too flimsy
Snap too easy. Feels good in my hands

Comments US 4 (3.5 mm)

Smooth feels good in the hand
has the feel of a metal needle
Smooth, nice join, easy on hands. Nice cable
Surprised, liked the feel of needle
Smooth, nice cord, good point.
Smooth join. Stiff-ish cable. Comfortable
Harder to move along the needle
Smooth, pointy but not too pointy
Good feel
Smooth
Nice!

	US 0 (2.20)		US 4 (3.5)		Overall (both)
Rating	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg
5	1	12.50%	4	36.36%	5	26.32%
4.5	—	—	1	9.09%	1	5.26%
4	2	25.00%	6	54.55%	8	42.11%
3	3	37.50%	—	—	3	15.79%
2	2	25.00%	—	—	2	10.53%
Overall	8	100%	11	100%	19	100%%
Average		3.25		4.41		3.92

Knitter’s Pride Karbonz
Type: carbon fiber fixed
Size: US 6 (4 mm)
Swatch type: flat
Rating: Ranked 21^st with an overall average rating of 3.19 (range 1 – 4)

I have a set of DPN Karbonz but had to borrow this needle to include it in this tasting. Personally, I dislike how the tips seem to catch the yarn. With the circulars, the join does not seem really smooth either. There is something about the transition between the carbon fiber and the metal joins and tips that just does not work. I give this needle a rating of 1, it is not for me.

Comments

Smooth joins. Cable fairly flexible
I love them, cord – OK, nice points
Join a little rough, cord has too much memory
Smooth, lightweight, comfortable.
Love the tips. Cord is too stiff. One Joint is smoother than the other.
hard to move along the needle
Cord too coiled.
Hate join

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	4	2	25.00%
	3.5	3	37.50%
	3	2	25.00%
	1	1	12.50%
Overall	3.19	8	100%

Knitter’s Pride: Trendz
Type: Acrylic fixed
Size: US 5 (3.75 mm)
Swatch type: flat
Rating: Ranked 23^rd with an overall rating of 2.55 (range 1 – 4)

I had tried the Marblz DPNs and did not like them, but thought I would purchase a set of these for the tasting to try an acrylic option. Although they feel warmer in my hands than metal needles, something someone might like, I would rather use Denise needles than these. The surface feels a bit too grabby, the transition from cord to needle is choppy and rough, and with the flex of the needles it feels like they could snap apart in my hands. After talking to a few people at the tasting, I found I paid way too much for these, especially as they will not be joining my other needles in stash. They are headed to the next give away table. I give them a 1; just cannot see rating them higher than I rated the Denise needles.

Comments

Smooth knitting but needle feels fragile
I like this needle. My current project is on the needle. Sharp Point; good join easy on my hands and wrists, no pain
Nothing special
Better than I expected, [xx]good KP joins. Very light, breakable feel
not bad, don’t like the look of them, nice point, nice cord
Not my favorite, sticky
I agree with post above, sticky feel
Squeaky, might be good for beginners
Better than I expected for a plastic needle
Rather tacky (in more ways than one)
These are the needles from the dollar store

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	4	2	18.18%
	3	3	27.27%
	2	5	45.45%
	1	1	9.09%
Overall	2.55	11	100%

Kollage: Square with Firm Cord
Type: Metal fixed
Size: US 1 (2.25 mm) and US 2.5 (3 mm)
Swatch type: magic loop (smaller needle) and flat (larger needle)
Rating: Overall average rating of 2.69 for both sizes combined
US 1 (2.25 mm) Ranked 24^th with an average rating of 2.07 (range 0 -5)
US 2.5 (3 mm) Ranked 17^th with an average rating of 3.55 (range 2 – 5)

Size matters when it came to testing. The points on the larger needles are nice; the one on the smaller should come with a warning sign. I used two sets of size US-0 with magic loop for socks while traveling, those sharp little points went right through my knitting bag like a porcupine. Thank you TSA for allowing me on board.

I tried these needles a long time ago with the softer cord and did not like them, the stitches would not transfer from the limp cord to the needle. A while back I tried their DPNs and liked the way the square shape stayed put when knitting in the round. Seeing the firm cord option, I gave the circulars another try. I find them comfortable in the hands, and the cord is still flexible enough to work well with magic loop, but my goodness those points on the smaller sizes are seriously sharp. I give these a 3.5.

Comments US 1 (2.25 mm)

Light. Square feels great in the hands. 🙂
Square shape is OK, too sharp
Somewhat sharp feeling in the hand
So sharp! Light. Nice cable
Light, feels good in hand but tip too sharp
Holy sharp needles, Batman!
Too bendy
Ditto (Holy sharp needles, Batman!)
Great points, but the joins are rough and I’m not crazy about the stickiness of the needle
Nope. Too sharp. Too light. Don’t like.
Dangerously sharp
Too sharp. I push needles down by tip. Not good for my knitting style
Tips are lethal. Ick!
Ouch!
Double ouch! Way too sharp tips.

Comments US 2.5 (3 mm)

Love the shape, great cord.
Needles feel a bit grabby. Fairly smooth join. Can’t tell they are square when using.
Nice hand feel. Wish the taper was longer
Would take some getting used to, but I think I would like these.
Shape inhibited my knitting
Interesting feel
Don’t like the angles
Long learning curve for me to work comfortably with this shape
Ehh. Not for me

	US 1 (2.25)		US 2.5 (3)		Overall (both)
Rating	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg
5	1	6.67	2	18.18	3	11.54
4.5	—	—	1	9.09	1	3.85
4	1	6.67	3	27.27	4	15.38
3	3	20.00	2	18.18	5	19.23
2.5	—	—	1	9.09	1	3.85
2	4	26.67	2	18.18	6	23.08
1	5	33.33	—	—	5	19.23
0	1	6.67	—	—	1	3.85
Overall	15	100%	11	100%	26	100%
Average		2.07		3.55		2.69

Lantern Moon: Destiny Circulars
Type: Wood fixed
Size: US 10 (6 mm)
Swatch type: flat
Rating: Ranked 19^th with an average rating of 3.32 (range 2 – 5)

After suffering quality issues with KnitPicks Rainbow Woods—and before I was brave enough to try metal needles—these were my next step. I loved the feel of wood and collected several of these in rosewood and ebony. The cord was firm, the needle smooth and warm feeling in my hands, but I struggled with the joins. Some needles were worse than others for drawing the yarn across that join, I found that the rosewood needles were more difficult to use than the ebony. What drew me to this needle originally was the claim that the swiveling cord was easier on the hands. I did like the swiveling cord but never hit my stride with the join. I sold all but this one, which I had given away and had to borrow back for this tasting. I rate this needle a 3.

Comments

Nice, fast knitting
Not very sharp, yarn slides nicely
Cable is a bit rigid, but needles are nice and smooth
Not very sharp. Nice wood
Nice feel on the hands
Nice feel in the hand, decent join
Good feel
Nice joins
Very light
Not fond of needles, felt plasticy. I liked the cord. Too expensive for quality
Not sharp enough, yarn doesn’t slide easily
Cord too stiff. Wood feels like plastic to me
Join catches some, feels plasticy, and has a very firm cord. It could use a pointier point.
Too blunt on the point, feels plasticy

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	5	1	7.14%
	4	7	50.00%
	3	1	7.14%
	2.5	1	7.14%
	2	4	28.57%
Overall	3.32	14	100%

Signature Needle Arts: Socks with 6” needles and stiletto tips
Type: metal (aluminum) fixed
Size: US 1 (2.25 mm)
Swatch type: magic loop
Rating: Ranked 12^th with an average rating of 4.31 (range 3 – 5)

Unlike Signature’s other circular needles, these smaller sock size needles are fixed. As with other Signatures, they are built to order with options of 4”, 5”, or 6” needles with either the stiletto or less sharp middy point, and with fixed cord options of different lengths. At this time, they are only available in size US-1 (2.25 mm) with plans to release size US-2 (2.75 mm) and the in between sizes of 2.5 mm and 3.0 mm sometime in the future. I usually knit socks on US-0 but I am looking forward to the 2.75 mm and 3.00 mm being available for those times when I cannot get gauge with a US-3 (3.25). The cord is stiffer than on their other needles and does not swivel. The join works fairly well, although in all honesty I just got these and I have not tested them with anything other than the magic loop with a relatively small number of stitches. There appears to be some resistance when pushing the stitches over the joins, it might be a touch sticky when knitting flat. I am hovering between a 4.5 and a 5 for these needles because of the non-swivel cord and I am a bit unsure of the join, but at first blush I like these. I am giving them a 5.

Comments

Sharp, smooth
Needle is firm enough, nice tip.
Sharp but not too sharp tip. Nice needle length
Lovely to work with, but I wish the cable was a bit more flexible and/or longer. Though the 5″ needles might be perfect.
Love them!
Gonna buy some
Smooth fast, don’t like hand feel
Sharp. Smooth. A little too light. Cord is super long.
Sharp, smooth join.
OK, but not worth the price for me
Ditto (OK, but not worth the price for me)
Needles too long
Don’t like the cable and the tips are a little too sharp

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	5	6	46.15%
	4	5	38.46%
	3	2	15.38%
Overall	4.31	13	100%

Signature Needle Arts: Stilettos
Type: metal (aluminum) interchangeable
Size: US 6 (4mm) with 5” needle tips and US 6 (4mm) with 6” needle tips
Swatch type: flat
Rating: Overall average rating of 4.5 for both tip sizes combined
5” needle tips ranked 4^th with an average rating of 4.64 (range 4 – 5
6” needle tips ranked 8^th with an average rating of 4.36 (range 3.5 – 5)

When I start a project, I reach for my Signatures. I have sizes US 3 to US 9, with multiple tips and cords for the sizes I use most. They are my go-to-needle when their sizes work for my project. The sharp tips, swiveling cords, and sheer beauty of them make them a joy to use. In the past few years my needle exploration has been for needles in sizes that Signature did not make, such as needles with 16” cords for hats and needles smaller than size US 3. Until recently, they were only available down to size US 3 for circulars, but they have plans to release smaller sizes in fixed circulars and recently released size US 1 (2.25 mm). The down side to these needles is the cord, unlike other interchangeable kits, the cords are specific to the needle size. In other words, a cord that goes with a size US 5 needle will not work with the size US 7. When I add a new size to my collection, typically I buy the tips, the shortest cord, and the longest cord.

There are several choices in building your needles, in addition to selecting the size of the needle and then length of the cord(s), you also choose the length of the needle tips and the sharpness of the tips. My preference is for the 6” in with stiletto tips. The cord is very flexible and can cause the stitches to lag across the join, I find that I push stitches up on the needle before knitting and having the longest length needle allows me to put a lot of stitches on the needle. I also find a longer needle more comfortable in my hands than the shorter ones. But, as evidenced by the tasting, size matters and some preferred the shorter 5” needle tip. We did not have a 4” tip in the tasting.

There is a simple twist mechanism for attaching the cords to the needles. Early on I had some issue with them loosening during use, but once I obtained their handy-dandy little rubber disc for tightening them it has not been much of a problem. They did not loosen during the tasting, but on big projects I do make it a habit to periodically check that they are firmly connected and give them a tightening if needed.

I give these needles a 5, but the cord could be a bit better.

Comments 5″ tips

Best needle every made
Very nice
Love them!
Thumbs up
These are so fast
Love these, Nice feel to the needles & good cord
Not a fan of the softer cord, but great otherwise
Lightweight, nice point
Love the feel of the needle, I’m not crazy about the cord
Very nice
Fine, but I like 6″ better

Comments 6″ tips

Fabulous!
Smooth
Great, but cable a bit flimsy
Love the needles, hate the cord.
Smooth join, great fit in my large hands
Nice and smooth, don’t love the cable
Love the needle. Not sure about the cord.
Expected more given all the hype! Cord had too much memory – like the swivel in the cord
Like the longer 6″, good cord, nice points
Nice point, smooth. Stiff cable.

	5″ needle tips		6″ needle tips		Overall (both)
Rating	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg
5	6	54.55%	3	27.27%	9	40.91%
4.5	2	18.18%	3	27.27%	5	22.73%
4	3	27.27%	4	36.36%	7	31.82%
3.5	—	—	1	9.09%	1	4.55%
Overall	11	100%	11	100%	22	100%
Average		4.64		4.36		4.50

Skacel: Addi Turbo
Type: metal (brass) fixed
Size: US 5 (3.75 mm)
Swatch type: flat
Rating: Ranked 15^th with an average rating of 3.81 (range 3 – 4.5)

These needles are my workhorse needles. The cord is stiff enough to carry the stitches smoothly and the needles are quite slick, a little too slick perhaps. The tips are okay but not as sharp as others. Still, this needle has always been a good basic choice, although I think the Addi Turbo Rockets have the edge. I give these a 4.

Comments

I like the smoothness
Nice join. Cord a little stiff. Good unless doing magic loop. Smooth join.
Nice feel
Again, not crazy about the cord
Cord stiff
Good join & weight. I like more point.
Cord too stiff for me

	Rating	Count	Pctg
	4.5	1	12.50
	4	5	62.50
	3	2	25.00
Overall	3.81	8	100%

Skacel: Addi Turbo Rockets
Type: metal (nickel plated) fixed
Size: US 1 (2.25 mm) and US 4 (3.5 mm)
Swatch type: magic loop (smaller needle) and flat (larger needle)
Rating: Overall average rating of 4.86 for both sizes combined
US 2 (2.25 mm) Ranked 1^st with an average rating of 5.0
US 4 (3.5 mm) Ranked 3^rd with an average rating of 4.67 (range 4 – 5)

If I had to give up my Signatures, these are the needles that I would turn to. I first discovered the Addi Sock Rockets when I was trying to find an alternative to the Chiagoo Red Lace for magic loop. I tried a few options but was wowed by these. The needle is the perfect amount of slick for natural fibers like wool and cotton, although might be a bit too slippery for something like silk. The cord is firm enough to carry the stitches without being too stiff. The yarn glides over the joins effortlessly. Soon after buying my Turbo Sock Rockets I learned that they were dropping the “sock” from the name and making these in larger sizes as well as the smaller sock sizes. I will definitely be adding more of these needles to my stash as the need arises. If only the cord swiveled these would be perfection. I give these a weak but well-earned 5.

Comments US 2 (2.25 mm)

Love!
Smooth, nice cable and join
Nice point and smooth join
Nice point, smooth join, cable good
Seem about perfect. 5″ needle and 40″ cable a bit stiff, but length works great
Smooth. Needle right weight
Great

Comments US 4 (3.5 mm)

Super!
Like!
Love!
Like them, smooth
Almost too slick. Don’t like the cord
So smooth

	US 2 (2.25)		US 4 (3.5)		Overall (both)
Rating	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg	Count	Pctg
5	8	100%	4	66.67%	12	85.71%
4	—	—	2	33.33%	2	14.29%
Overall	8	100%	6	100%	14	100%
Average		5.00		4.67		4.86

Needle Tasting Results

Published on February 12, 2017February 22, 2017 by KVPostsLeave a comment

Coming soon…

The results are in. Check out Finding a Needle in the Haystack to learn about the needle tasting.

Kitty Tricks: Knitting Feline Eared Hats

Published on January 13, 2017January 13, 2017 by KVPostsLeave a comment

Recently I participated, to the tune of 20 hats, in The Pussyhat Project. Repetition freed my mind to consider the various different steps. In making the same pattern over and over again, I began to think about and analyze the processes. Some of this may be helpful for knitting any type of small project in the round, and for anyone who has been afraid of or has forgotten how to do the Kitchener stitch.

Setting Up to Knit in the Round

See Video for setting up and beginning to knit in the round

There are many cast-ons, but my preferred one for working in the round is the long-tailed cast on. The Pussyhat Pattern instructs the knitter to cast on 50 stitches, work flat, and seam up the sides. Given that I am not a big fan of seaming–not to mention that stockinette in the round is all knits and no purls–I modified the pattern to work in the round. Casting on 50 stitches then seaming the sides translates into 100 stitches when joined, which I found to be a bit large. Experimenting with different numbers of cast-on stitches to make a medium sized hat, I settled on 92 stitches with a worsted weight yarn on a US size 4 (3.5 mm) needle. Any multiple of 4 works for this pattern, so this can easily be adjusted for gauge with different yarn weights and needle sizes.

Unlike cast ons that draw the working yarn from the ball as you need it, such as a cable or knit cast on, a long-tailed cast on requires pulling out enough working yarn in advance to complete the cast on; one has to guess how much will be needed. It was a light bulb clicked on and burning bright when I got the tip for casting on with the outside and inside ends of a cake or pulling yarn from two separate cakes of the same yarn type. By tying a slip knot to join the two separate strands, the working yarn can be drawn from the balls as needed without pulling it out in advance. I cannot say how many times I have approached the end of a large number of cast-on stitches only to run out of yarn before I reached the end. It is very difficult to guesstimate how much yarn to pull out for a cowl worked in the round that calls for more than 300 cast on stitches. This method works great, but there is a dark side. When drawing from two strands of yarn, the cast on edge has two tails rather than one to weave in. So, although I love, love, love this method for larger numbers of stitches, for casting on something smaller like socks or a hat I find there is less to fiddle with if I just estimate how much I need. I think I pulled out about 5 or 6 feet of yarn for casting on each of these hats, leaving me with one healthy tail to weave in later.

Cast on the number of stitches required plus 1. I will explain more about the extra stitch later, but it is for joining in the round. In my case, I wanted 92 stitches so I cast on 93. Before joining to work in the round, make sure that none of the stitches are twisted. I like to align the stitches so that, holding the tips of the needles together to form an oval, the live stitches are to the outside and the cast on edge is facing to the inside.

There are a few tricks for joining in the round once the stitches are cast on. I like to swap stitches from both needles so that the first cast on stitch and the last cast on stitch overlap. This requires casting on an additional stitch which is knit together (or purled together) with the last stitch on the end of the first round. With the needle holding the first cast on stitch in your left hand and the last cast on stitch in your right, move the first cast on stitch from the left needle to the right needle; for the moment it is next to the last cast on stitch. Lift the last cast on stitch over the stitch that was just moved to the right needle and move it to the left needle. The first and last stitches have swapped places. The swapped stitch with the working yarn, the last one that was cast on, looks sloppy for the moment but that is okay. Tighten the stitch by pulling on the tails and begin working in the round. Be careful to knit with the working yarn from the ball, not the tail. This is an easy mistake to make with a long tail cast on because, with all that guessing, often there is a really long tail. And yes I have done this. More than once.

At the end of the round, the first cast on stitch that was moved to the right needle will be knit (or purled) together with the last stitch. At that point I place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round. For my 92 stitch hat, I cast on 93, swapped stitches from the ends of both needles, began my 2×2 rib K2-P2, worked to the last 5 stitches, ended the round with K2-P1-P2TOG, and placed my marker.

Starting to Work in the Round

See Video for setting up and beginning to knit in the round

The first round is the trickiest when working a rib pattern. Remember to check that your stitches are not twisting. If you have counted and rechecked the number of your cast on stitches, you should end the round with 5 stitches remaining. If not, you did not do the rib pattern correctly. To keep on track, it is helpful to either stop and read your knitting after each 4-stitch repeat of the pattern or recite something as you do it, like “Knit-Knit, Purl, Purl,” “Knit 1, 2, Purl 1, 2,” or “1-2-3-4” to keep the pattern in order. In reading your knitting, a purl stitch looks like it is wearing a little turtleneck sweater with a bar across the bottom and the knit stitch looks like it is wearing a loosely looped scarf. Once the first row is knit and the marker is placed, it is easier to follow along as you knit the knits and purl the purls. Particularly after the first few rows, it becomes obvious when you place a knit where a purl belongs or vice versa.

Working in the Round

Once the rib pattern was set-up, it was just a matter of following along until I reached 4 inches. I knit the stockinette section about the same height, so I just periodically folded it over to make sure it matched the rib section rather than stopping to measure each section.

I added a second marker half-way through the round, with 92 stitches that would be after the 46th stitch. When I got to the stockinette section, I did a purl before both the halfway marker and the start of round marker. This creates a virtual seam up the sides to give the hat more stability.

I bought several skeins of yarn, but also dove into my bins for every rose, blush, or pink yarn I could find. They are nice colors, and I did have a fair amount of what could loosely be called pink, but not in worsted weight. Consequently, some of my hats were made with 2 or even 3 strands held together and most of them combined multiple yarns. There were hats with stripes, color blocks, and DIY gradients. It was a happy accident, it gave the hats some added interest.

When working in the round, there can be an issue with a color change for stripes. Unlike knitting rows back and forth, knitting a round is really a spiral; a color change can look like a blip at the start of the round. There is a trick of lifting the stitch from the row below as demonstrated in this video by PlanetPurl. When the colors were very similar I did not bother, but it was helpful with contrasting colors to have a more smooth transition. Often, when using multiple yarns and changing to a slightly different color, I interspersed rows of old and new so the color shifts looked more gradual.

Kitchener Stitch

See video for learning and remembering the Kitchener stitch

Working in the round made the pattern go much faster, but I did have to graft the hat at the top. The original pattern was folded and joined on the sides; the top was simply the fold. On the Ravelry Pussyhat Project forum, some people did a 3-needle bind-off. Another person did Jenny’s magic cast-on and worked top down rather than bottom-up. I opted to work from the bottom up and closed the top of the hat with the Kitchener stitch.

Now some people gasp, shudder, and run as fast as they can when they hear those words, but the Kitchener stitch is not at all difficult. It is fiddly, and one has to pay attention to the order in which he or she does things, but what I have always found annoying is trying to remember that order. It seems I always need to take a trip to YouTube and watch a video or two when I have not done the Kitchener stitch in a while. The advantage of having done 20 hats using the Kitchener stitch is that I had a great opportunity to break down what I was doing and really think about it.

Before starting, you want the same number of stitches divided evenly between two needles. That is not easy to do when stitches are evenly distributed on a circular needle in the round, but the marker at the midpoint delineates an even number of stitches between what I will call the front and back needles. Later, as you work across and there are fewer stitches remaining on the needles, you can pull out the cord where the marker is and divide the stitches evenly.

Hold the needles so the back needle has the working yarn and the last stitch worked in the final round while the front needle has the start of round marker and the first stitch of the final round. Remove the marker. Cut the yarn leaving a tail long enough to work across the top. More is better…it is painful to run out of yarn in the midst of doing the Kitchener stitch. Thread the working yarn on to a tapestry needle and you are ready to start. But before we get started, let’s look at the sequence of steps for the Kitchener stitch.

There are 4 steps.

Put the needle knitwise into the first stitch on the front needle, draw the yarn through, and remove the stitch from the needle
Put the needle purlwise into the next stitch on the front needle and draw the yarn through but do not remove the stitch
Put the needle purlwise into the first stitch on the back needle, draw the yarn through, and remove the stitch from the needle
Put the needle knitwise into the next stitch on the back needle and draw the yarn through but do not remove the stitch

After the 4 steps, two stitches are joined and removed from the needles and two stitches are anchored and ready to be removed in the next round. The process creates a weave that looks like stockinette and creates a nearly invisible join. Steps 1 and 2 are worked on the front needle, steps 3 and 4 on the back needle.

To abbreviate it, it is 1) Knit off, 2) Purl on, 3) Purl off, and 4) knit on. One could say to themselves “Off, on, off, on,” “Knit-off, Purl-on, Purl-off, Knit-on,” or “Knit, purl, purl, knit” as they step through the Kitchener Stitch. For some reason what works for me is to recite “1, 2, 3, 4” as I work through the steps.

Notice that if you start with a knit on one needle, you end with a purl on that needle and vice versa. But how do you remember which is which? This is the memory trigger: look at the stitches on the front needle. You are looking at the right side (RS) of stockinette which, when knit flat, is always a knit stitch. So, begin with a knit on the front needle and end with a purl. Now, without changing position of the needles, look at the stitches facing you on the back needle. They are the wrong side (WS) of stockinette, which when knit flat is always a purl. So, begin with a purl on the back needle and end with a knit. What else do you need to remember? The first stitch on each needle is taken off and the second stitch is worked in the opposite direction but always remains on.

To start the Kitchener stitch, some knitters will just jump right in with the 4 steps, claiming that it gives them a smoother edge. The traditional way is to do a set-up before diving in. The set-up is simply doing steps 2 and 4 only then proceeding into the 4-step process. In other words, put the needle in purlwise and draw the yarn through the first stitch of the front needle, leaving the stitch on the needle, then put the needle in knitwise and draw the yarn through the first stitch on the back needle, leaving the stitch on the needle. Now begin and repeat the 4-step Kitchener stitch until 1 stitch remains on each needle.

To end, when there is only 1 stitch left on each needle, you do steps 1 and 3 only: put the needle in the last stitch of the front needle knitwise, draw the yarn through, and drop the stitch off the needle then put the needle through the last stitch on the back needle purlwise, draw the yarn through, and drop the stitch off the needle. I find the final stitches look a bit lumpy, but what worked well for me was to put the needle in behind the last stitches worked, draw it through the work, pull it tight, and weave in the ends.

When you get down to the final stitches, I find it helpful to put my finger on the remaining stitches to make sure they do not fall off. Also, it is important to maintain a firm and even tension as you go, but do not tighten up the yarn too much or it will not match your knit gauge.

Finishing

As to weaving in ends, as a friend of mine says, “Everyone goes to Hell in their own way.” I had the faux seam up the side and that made a great place to hide the ends. I like to weave in ends in two directions–up then down or down then up–so they withstand stretching and finally run the needle through some stitches to really anchor the end. I trim the yarn leaving just a bit so it will have enough length to settle in. Although many swear that one should weave ends in after washing and blocking, I always do it before and have had fewer problems that way. Weaving in is not usually someone’s favorite thing to do, but we all suffer through it in our own way.

I did not worry about color bleed and did not prewash any of my yarn, but I did use color catcher sheets in the wash when there were strongly contrasting colors. With blocking, the pattern was so simple I merely shaped them flat on a blocking board.

So ends my 20 hat odyssey, but wait…I just returned from the store where I found a ball of baby pink 100% merino on sale. Looks like it will be 21 and done.

Videos in the post: Getting started working in the round and Understanding the Kitchener stitch

Pussyhat, Pussyhat, Where Have You Been?

Published on January 3, 2017January 17, 2017 by KVPosts1 Comment

Pussyhat, Pussyhat where have you been?
I’ve been to Washington in hopes to be seen.

Pussyhat, Pussyhat what did you there?
I gave brave marchers a warm symbol to wear.

This post includes information for recipients of my hats followed by a bit about my involvement with The Pussyhat Project.

Information for Hat Recipients

Dear Pussyhat Recipient,

More than a thousand knitters from all over the nation participated in this project, what are the chances you would end up with one of mine? I hope it will keep you warm during the Woman’s March on Washington, and I hope that you will enjoy its warmth long after or donate it to help keep someone else warm through the long cold winter. Although we do not know each other, know that your hat was knit with great care, warm wishes, and good intentions.

All hats were based on the basic Pussyhat Project Pattern and are made with wool. Your hat is tagged with a number for identification, care instructions are listed below by hat number. Please read on for more about your hat.

General Care Instructions

Hand Washing Instructions

Hand washing is appropriate for all hats. Soak in cool water using a gentle wool wash, such as Kookaburra or Eucalan. Some knitters use a touch of a very mild liquid hand soap or a few drops of Dawn Liquid rather than wool wash. Drain. If using soap, re-soak in plain water to remove soap residue but do not agitate. Saturated wool is very delicate, carefully wrap in towel and squeeze out excessive moisture. To dry, lay flat and pat into shape on a towel.

Machine Washing Instructions

If your hat is machine washable, use cold water and select gentle cycle. You may want to enclose it in a lingerie bag to keep it from snagging and stretching. Use a mild detergent, such as The Laundress Wool and Cashmere Shampoo. To dry, lay flat and pat it into shape on a towel or rack.

Washing Tips

If the wool gets really stretched out in the washing process (shhhh, don’t tell anyone I said this) a couple of minutes in a dryer can tighten those stitches back up…but be very careful! The hat should still be damp enough to pat into shape and air dry.

I put hand knits in my top-loading washing machine on the spin cycle wrapped inside a towel to remove excess moisture; this leaves the piece damp and firm rather than sopping wet, soggy, and easily damaged. Hand washing is gentler on hand knits, and when wool is spun dry it dries quickly. Generally I hand wash knit garments, even those made with machine washable fibers.

Hats 1-3

Hat 1

Hat 2

Hat 3

Care: Machine Wash

Contents: Rowan Pure Wool Superwash (100% wool)

Hat 4

Care: Hand Wash (sorry)

Contents: Stonehedge Fiber Mill Shepherd’s Wool (100% merino wool)

Hat 5

Care: Machine Wash

Contents: Cascade 220 Superwash (100% wool) and Claudia Hand Painted Yarn (100% Merino wool).

Notes: Brim was trimmed with double strand of the Hand Painted Yarn.

Hat 6

Care: Machine Wash

Contents: Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock (wool and nylon)

Notes: Yarn held in double strands to give more thickness, hat is still warm but lighter weight than the others.

Hat 7

Care: Machine Wash

Contents: Fibreworks Fingering (100% hand dyed wool from Australia)

Notes: Knit hat with double strands. Made a very thick hat, should be extra cozy!

Hat 8

Care: Machine Wash

Contents: Fibreworks Fingering (100% wool from Australia) and Claudia Hand Painted Yarn (100% Merino wool).

Notes: Knit with both yarns combined to give hat more thickness.

Hat 9

Care: Machine Wash

Contents: Fibreworks Fingering (100% wool from Australia) and Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock (wool and nylon).

Notes: Knit with both yarns combined to give hat more thickness.

Hat 10

Care: Machine Wash

Contents: Cascade 220 Superwash (100% wool) and Fibreworks Fingering (100% hand dyed wool from Australia)

Notes: Brim striped with the hand dyed yarn

Hat 11

Care: Machine Wash

Contents: Cascade 220 Superwash (100% wool) and Fibreworks Fingering (100% hand dyed wool from Australia)

Notes: Brim striped and body of hat slip-stitched with hand dyed yarn

Hats S1-S20-something: The Sister March Hats

Edited January 12 to add hats made for sister marches.

After mailing my hats for to Washington, DC I continued to knit hats for sister marches with whatever pink yarn I could find, beg, borrow, or steal. Some of the yarns did not have labels, some of the hats are constructed with two or three yarns held together, and all are a mix of yarns. I cannot be certain of the washing instructions, most are probably okay to machine wash and line dry, but to be on the safe side I would recommend washing by hand, wrap in towel to spin or squeeze dry, lay flat to dry, and gently reshape.

Pussyhat, Pussyhat where have you been?
I’ve been from the Atlantic, to the Pacific, and in between.

Pussyhat, Pussyhat what did you there?
I sprinkled marches with pink from here to there.

My Involvement with The PussyHat Project

I first heard about The PussyHat Project in an email from Klose Knit, our local yarn store (LYS in knitter’s terms). I was overseas at the time but with the miracle of the Internet was able to see what type of yarn the pattern called for and placed an order so that it would be there when I arrived home. My intention was to knit 3 or 4 hats, but once I got started I changed my goal to 10 hats. For anyone who has seen Spinal Tap, you will understand that once I made a goal of 10 that I just had to go to 11.

Many knitters have something called “stash” and I am a big time offender. However, when it came to pinks it was something of a challenge to find enough yarn for so many hats. I had yarn that was pink but it was the wrong thickness, but with a little creativity–such as holding two yarns together as I knit–I was able to use up my supply of pink yarns. In spite of a wealth of yarn on hand, I still found myself ordering more online and stopping in at the LYS for just one more skein. It is the curse of stash that, no matter how large it is, the right yarn is seldom there for any given project. It is also a blessing (or a curse) that knitters seldom mind shopping for more yarn.

What people wearing these hats may not know about this project is the camaraderie and cooperation that was shared among the participants. There is a website for knitters and crocheters called Ravelry. The group thread for the PussyHat Project has been very active. People posted details about modifications they made for knitting the hats more quickly. It is thanks to those generous people that I was able to knit my hats faster “in the round” rather than knitting flat and seaming them afterwards. I did have to seam the top, but I used the oft-dreaded Kitchener stitch over and over, and now know it so well I will never have to look up instructions for it again. Thank you for that. I also picked up the hint to add bows to accentuate and define each ear.

While crafters shared their tips, experiences, and thoughts, many designers offered their cat-inspired hat patterns free to project participants. Some of the small independent yarn companies and individual shops offered discounts on pink yarns. Whatever effort I put into this was well worth it for the graciousness and sense of community I experienced while participating in this project.

There were threads about the Woman’s March on Washington as well as sister marches located elsewhere across the country and abroad. I found options for buses to Washington from my home state as well as options for marches closer to home. I checked the Facebook groups for the different options and decided upon the march in Chicago. The group has been very active and informative about the march and other events. The idea of marches occurring in cities across the country and abroad as well as in Washington really appealed to me. It will be a long day but in the end I booked Amtrak tickets for a very early morning train ride to Chicago and a late afternoon train ride home. And yes, now I need to knit another pussyhat.

There are many reasons why I wholeheartedly joined in on this project. Of all the reasons why I chose to participate, perhaps the most important one is to have the sense of unity. With all the divisiveness—the us-versus-them rhetoric—I am so fortunate to be able to participate in a project that emphasizes cooperation, common purpose, and good will. We all have our individual reasons for joining in (or abstaining from) this movement, but I think a sense of unity is something we can all believe in. I hope to share my experiences in Chicago in a future post, but in the meantime I am grateful for the opportunity to participate in this project. To those of you wearing one of these hats, thank you for caring enough to stand up and be counted as one hoping to keep the “United” in the United States.

Change is in the Air

Published on October 25, 2016October 25, 2016 by KVPosts1 Comment

In less than one week we have had temps in the 80’s dropping to the 30’s (about 30c to 2c); change is in the air. What better time to have a knitting retreat than when it is time to change the closet over from light cottons to heavy flannels, from breezy sandals to cozy clogs, from sun hats to knitted caps, from cool fabrics in tropical brights to warm clothes in deep subdued tones. It is cozy fiber time: wools, cashmeres, alpacas, and silky blends.

I have attended several spring Knitting Pipeline Retreats–perhaps it would be more accurate to say late winter retreats–but had only attended one fall retreat before this. Up until this year the fall retreat had been known as The Cornerstone Retreat, named for a cute B&B that hosted the attendees in their meeting room and accommodated some of the guests in their cozy chambers. But as with the seasons change was in the air for the B&B, it was sold and the meeting room was acquired by a local shop for expansion. The Cornerstone Retreat is no more. This fall the retreat was moved from the cozy inn to a rustic camp and retreat center, only a half hour of country lane’s drive away from the Cornerstone Inn in Washington but a world apart. The Knitting Pipeline Cornerstone Retreat has became the Eagle Crest Retreat.

The Eagle Crest Camp and Retreat Center, run by The Salvation Army, is set in a forested and hilly area close to Upper Peoria Lake. Rooms are spartan by any standards, only the bare necessities: a door that closes on a room with a wall heating and cooling unit, some simple furnishings (bunk bed, double bed, dressers, a chair, and luggage rack), a sink with a mounted soap dispenser, a toilet, a shower, and some well used towels in assorted colors and sizes. My room had a mounting bracket for a hair dryer, but no dryer, and no amenities other than the industrial strength soap in a mounted dispenser. It was basic. Growing up where vacations were camping with 4 brothers crowded into a canvas tent, boiling water to wash dishes by the light of a flickering lantern, huddling by an eye watering smokey fire to chase the chill out, and sleeping on an air mattress that failed to hold air through the night, this was luxury by comparison. The summer camps I attended in my early years were better than a canvas tent, but not by much. Bunk beds in drafty cabins with showers and latrines a hiking distance from the sleeping quarters. Looking at it another way, comparing the retreat accommodations to the B&B with cozy quilts and jacuzzi tubs, was not quite as helpful as comparing it to my early camp experiences.

At the Cornerstone, the meeting room was poorly lit and not very large. The camp had a large, well lit dining hall filled with tables and utilitarian molded chairs. There was a comfortable corner with a few couches and cushioned chairs, in other words, the premium real estate. Because the room was larger, the retreat was able to accommodate more attendees. I was worried that having more people would change the character–that it would be less intimate–but we had enough circulation that in the end it was not an issue. Besides, it was fun to meet people who were “retreat virgins” and share in their excitement of attending their first knitting retreat.

If a disinterested someone were to ask me what one does at a knitting retreat, perhaps it could be summed up simply with knit, eat, chat, and sleep, not necessarily in that order. To an interested someone, all of that is true but I do have a bit more to add.

The fall retreat has been going a few years now, and those who have been going since the beginning return and renew acquaintances each year. These are the people who greet one another as old friends. Returning for the second time after having missed last year’s retreat, I recognized a few people from my first time and a few people from the much larger spring retreats. I came with two other people, so never felt at a loss, but even those who had never been to this retreat did not feel like strangers for long. After the business of checking in, it was not long before people laid claim to their bit of space and settled into spots to begin knitting. Conversations started up quietly among neighboring knitters, tentatively beginning with the simplest of starters such as, “Where are you from?” “What are you working on?” “What yarn is that?” Beginning as a low hum, it was not long before the room was awash in animated conversations combined with laughter, climbing to a pleasant rumble of happy voices.

We did have a schedule, followed loosely, so all was not just eating and knitting. You might say Paula Emons-Fuessle, who hosts the retreat, does not run a tight ship. It is more accurate to say that she quietly and graciously runs things so smoothly that it does not feel like a tight ship. Everything happens that is supposed to happen, but never at the expense of the relaxed atmosphere that can only be produced by being in the company of contented knitters.

The first evening we had a mug cozy exchange. Those who participated marked their cozy with their names, displayed them, and each cozy was assigned a number. For the exchange, we randomly drew a number, found the cozy with that number, oohed and aahed, then searched the room until we found the creator of our new cozy. Mine was a cute cabled cozy with buttons that had stitch markers attached, stitch markers that were put to work before the weekend was through. There was also a give-away table, a contributed snack table, and a winding station, each of which provided a gathering place to start or join into chats.

Two nights in a row we did show and tell. The first night we kicked it off with my local knitting group sharing our very different projects made with the same yarn. I anticipated a brain drain and had printed up a list with the names of patterns and yarns used in the projects I showed, but it would not have mattered if I had not done so. Those who were in front of the group holding up a sweater, shawl, sock, hat, or other knitted goodie and drawing a complete blank for the name of the project or designer were assisted by various members of the audience calling it out. Many of the knitters had amazing creations, all had good stories for what they were showing. Some had obstacles they had overcome, others had challenged themselves with something new, and some very clever knitters had taken a design and made modifications that suited their style and preferences. Presenters had an appreciative audience, and many new projects were put into queues and pattern favorites were added to Ravelry pages.

We had a formal class on brioche taught by Amy Detjen from Knitcircus Yarns. She arrived the evening before the class with bins of gorgeous yarn and had no trouble gathering volunteers to help carry it in from her filled-to-the-brim car. We all excitedly waited for the lids to be popped and as soon as they were lifted the bins were swarmed. Amy had a bit of an issue getting the internet connection for the sales, but once that was ironed out a lengthy line formed. Many bought kits for the brioche class, many bought gradients and/or sock sets that somehow found their way into their hands. The bins remained opened from that night throughout the retreat, the stacks of yarn dropped lower and lower in the bins as time went by. It was almost a relief when a yarn that was singing me a siren song disappeared. The only thing that saved me, and just barely, from buying the brioche kit was the reality check that I would not wear the class pattern; I would have to buy at least two kits to make the length I preferred. And yes, I did seriously consider that, but by the time I succumbed to the temptation I could not find more than one set with the combination I wanted. Scrap yarn was perfectly fine for learning the technique.

Amy was a good teacher and I think I got it; certainly learning it well enough to understand a You-Tube video if I revisit it in the future. I also learned the do-not-make-a-mistake-in-brioche lesson. As I read the pattern, I missed the YO for the brioche purl and thought I could just tink back one row but ended up having to rip back to the original set-up row. Especially nice for those who did invest in the yarn kits, Amy was on hand to offer guidance and fix mistakes well after the class was over. Those who caught on were also ready and able to help others with brioche as well as with any other knitting stumbling blocks that were encountered. Knitters are exceptionally generous with their time and patience when it comes to helping other knitters.

Over the course of the retreat groups disappeared and took field trips to regional yarn shops or took hikes in the woods. My big adventure was to go along with a couple of others to the very little town of Washburn to get soap. Given that our only source of soap was an industrial strength soap dispenser next to the sinks, there was a demand for a milder and accessible shower option. I raised my eyebrows at one request for unscented soap, and little did I know just how little choice we would find at the Casey’s General Store. We found lots of snack foods, beverages, lottery tickets, and gasoline, but very little in regards to sundries: one bottle of men’s Irish Spring Bodywash and one 3-pack of Dial soap, definitely not unscented. We asked if there was a grocery store in town and the reply was well, yes, but it did not open at all the day before, would not be open until later that afternoon, and they did not recommend that we go there as everything on the shelves was past the expiration date. So Dial it was. Fortunately I was able to borrow a knife to cut it into chunks so it could be distributed to the many people clamoring for a soapy shower. A good strong scent was not unwelcome. There must be some geothermal activity near the well, the water in my room smelled of sulfur reminding me of the natural hot springs and the bubbling belching holes found in volcanic National Parks; an olfactory reminder of my tent camping adventures in earlier years. I once “took the waters” at Bath, but drinking that intensely mineral water once in my life was enough. I was happy to have bottled water and scented body wash, although the spouse later reminded me that people pay good money for the experience of soaking in mineral springs.

One of the retreat highlights was a little vendor fair with lots of lovely project bags. Amazingly–in spite of our pre-retreat yarn crawl and onsite market–I stayed within my budget, having put aside a set amount for splurges and spending no more than I had. It may not last long, I signed up for product emails from MariaElena’s bags and am sure to succumb not too far into the future. Temptation would have to wait, we had no cell phone coverage and spotty internet; although we could sometimes get online no one was receiving emails. Not that that is such a bad thing for a few days.

So what was it like to be at a knitting retreat? It was wonderful to renew friendships and make new ones. It was wonderful to be amongst people who share the joy of knitting, the love of fine fibers, and the enthusiasm to share their skills and experiences. Accommodations and fare would best be described as basic, but the time spent with others was platinum-level first-class knitting luxury. It could be enough to keep me going through the winter, the cold months between now and the next late-winter Knitting Pipeline “spring” retreat.

For those who do not know her, Paula Emons-Fuessle is a designer, podcaster, and has several instructional videos on You-Tube with links from her website. She hosts knitting retreats in Illinois, Georgia, and Main and will be co-hosting a knitting tour of Iceland with Amy Detjen next spring. She has two Ravelry threads, Knitting Pipeline and Knitting Pipeline Retreats.

Evolution of Purls

Published on September 29, 2016September 29, 2016 by KVPostsLeave a comment

I had a request to create a video for how I purl. It is one of those things that I had not given any thought to–just something my hands do on their own–but the request caused me to pause and give some thought to it.

I learned to knit English style, holding the yarn in my right hand, but was intrigued by other methods that looked more efficient. In one class I learned a few different methods, including the Portuguese style where I tensioned the yarn around my neck. A friend of mine knits with this method and swears by it, but although the purl stitch is quicker and easier with the Portuguese method, it is the knit stitch that becomes the more difficult one. Win some, lose some.

What I really wanted to master was the continental method where the yarn is held in the left hand and the hand movements appear more subtle. I must have had three or four classes in which I was able to knit continental while in the class but lost it in the days that followed. The knit stitch was easy but the purl stitch presented more of a challenge. It was when I learned the Norwegian purl that I found myself able to keep it up after the class; but to me the Norwegian purl was a lot of movement, certainly no faster than the method I already knew. It was not until I took a class with Leslie Solomon at Stitches West that the lightbulb went off. Her method was to rotate the left hand down, bringing the tensioned yarn over the needle and making it easier to grab.

In the weeks following, I switched off between continental and English, soon finding it just as comfortable to knit with the yarn in my left hand. The advantage was that it seemed less stressful on my hands, and faster too. Knowing both is fabulous for doing colorwork and I can knit with both hands pretty comfortably. But there is a dark side. When I knit English style, my gauge is usually spot on with yarn labels and pattern specifications for needle size. The more relaxed and rhythmic continental style is much looser, typically I need to go down at least 2 needle sizes to get gauge. For stranded knitting, my gauge is very tight and switching from a single color knit with one hand to a band of stranded color work knit with both hands requires going up a needle size or two as well as really concentrating on keeping my tension loose.

As time went by, my purl stitch evolved into something very similar to my knit stitch in the angle I insert the needle with my right hand and the angle in which I tension the yarn with my left hand. It is just something my hands started to do without consciously giving thought to it. For the most part, my rows are fairly even in stockinette on both the knit and the purl side, so I do not think it is a bad thing. It just is. It was not until someone in my knitting group asked me what I was doing that I gave any thought to it at all. It is not necessarily the right way, the recommended way, the best way, or the most unique way to purl, but over time it has become my way.

Note: in the video I did not stop to move my stitches up on the needle as I normally do so I was fighting a bit of drag on my stitches while trying to talk and knit at the same time. I was also reaching around a camera stacked on books, so it was all a bit awkward but I think it shows the angle of the needles and the tensioned yarn fairly accurately. But my goodness (shudder), watching it certainly makes me want to work a bit more on my technique. Perhaps a bit more mindful practice and a bit less mindless evolution should be in my future?

Above and Below the Bottom Line

Published on August 24, 2016August 24, 2016 by KVPosts2 Comments

The parties on either side of my pocketbook are at cross purposes, me wanting to get the most value for what leaves my wallet and companies on the other side trying to extract as much as possible while protecting their bottom line. I get over a hundred emails a day with last chance, today only, buy now, hurry, hurry, hurry last chance big savings; I attempt to press delete-delete-delete faster than my eye can register and consider any of the alluring offers. There is a reason for all those emails appearing in my in-box, I can get lured in when my eyes are faster than my deleting fingers and must be on every list from here to Katmandu.

The conclusion of these impulse transactions can end happily for both parties, or they can end with the oft repeated you-get-what-you-pay for lesson. Beyond the value of saving money is the value of establishing a trusting relationship with a company. This week when I had mixed customer service experiences, it got me to thinking about the good will that I carry forward from a positive experience and how important that good will is for encouraging future transactions. It is surprising how little it can take to engender that good will. I am naming names, but only the names I want to remember not the names I want to forget.

I am a repeat customer with Loopy Ewe and Miss Babs. Loopy Ewe calls the people in their shipping department “elves” and it is indeed like a mini-Christmas morning when a package arrives. They, like many other merchants, have tried to save shipping costs by using plastic shipping sleeves, but the inside the purchased is securely wrapped in tissue paper and enclosed in an internal plastic bag. If peeling back the tissue does not make you feel special enough, they also enclose a little packet with red swizzled paper and Tootsie Rolls. I do not eat Tootsie Rolls but it is such a–pardon the pun–sweet touch. Miss Babs also encloses packages in tissue paper inside an internal plastic bag, including a card with a very nice stitch marker attached and sometimes some other little goodies, like a baby skein of yarn to sample. Such little things show respect for their product, care in their packaging, and a little thank you to their customers.

Another well known yarn vendor recently sent a skein of sock yarn tossed unwrapped into a shipping sleeve. The bag arrived torn and the yarn subjected to the grit and grime of the shipping journey. I could have, and perhaps should have, asked for a prepaid shipping label and an exchange, but it is time and trouble for me to drive 10 miles to a UPS facility and an expense for them to process a return and new shipment. I examined the yarn and it seemed okay, but I did write to their customer service to report the problem and to suggest that they do more to protect their products for the journey. I got an email back saying they would let their shipping department know and, in fairness, did say to contact them if I discovered that the yarn was wonky when I started using it. A few weeks later I ordered from them again, white silk merino lace weight. It too was tossed into the shipping bag unwrapped and unprotected. Do I write them again or just not shop with them in future? Their customers probably should not be asking themselves these kind of questions.

I purchased a few Signature Needle Arts fixed circulars when they first came out, and loved them, but the early cords were inflexible and stiff in comparison to their later models. When adding to my collection, someone contacted me to say I already had a cord in that size. I wrote back to thank her–having forgotten that cord was on a time-out project–and while I was at it asked about the possibility of replacing the old cords on my early adopted needles. She sent me a pre-paid shipping label and instructions for me to return them. They did not replace the cord on the old needles but completely replaced the needles and cords with the latest interchangeable option, arriving in lovely tissue wrapped storage sleeves. I loved my Stilettos before this, now I have the highest regard for the company too.

Craftsy offers classes, kits, and supplies in all levels of splurge to budget options, with many sales to boot. They have recently added their own line of yarn, Cloudborn Fibers, which I was curious to try as a low cost alternative to some of the finer and more costly fibers from name brand companies. One of the specials was a on-sale-now sweater Kit using their Highland DK yarn and I thought, why not? I have satisfactorily purchased other Cloudborn yarns that were quite nice so it was with little contemplation that I hit the buy button. When it arrived, the yarn felt harsh to my hands and, worse, my hands felt a bit itchy as I handled it. The thought of knitting an entire sweater with a yarn that felt uncomfortable was too much to consider, sale price or no. Thinking I would have a hefty restocking charge, I initiated a return request. Not only did I get a nice personal note in response but a prepaid return shipping label as well. It was such a feel-good moment that I knew I would have no hesitation to shop with them in the future. What a relief, when expecting the worst, it was no problem whatsoever. This came on the heels of a less positive experience with an online shoe vender that publicized free shipping and exchanges but failed to mention that they charged for returns. To get the “free” exchange I was required to purchase an exchange item at the current day’s no-longer-on-sale price and would not receive credit for the original purchase until they received and processed the returned item. One return they will never receive is me as a customer.

It is by no means a single vendor, made up of so many retailers and crafts people, but for the most part I have had wonderful experiences on Etsy. Particularly for handmade items, I have found the crafts people to really be proud of their handmade stitch markers, hand-dyed and/or spun yarns, knitting bags, needle cases, quilts, and such. They generally seem to be so happy that someone shows their appreciation of their crafts enough to purchase from them and email exchanges are often warm and friendly. Although I rely on ratings as a guideline, I have had far more really positive experiences than indifferent ones on Etsy.

Bag from FrontRangeBags, stitch markers from WineMakersSister, and needle case from Quincepie on Etsy

It is a leap of faith to buy a product unseen, save for a picture on a monitor, from a shop I have never visited and whose staff I have never met. But it occurred to me how little things can make me feel valued and give me confidence that care is given to their products. Although it would be easy to write a very l…o…n…g post about the bad experiences I have had with various companies, I wanted to take a moment to be thankful for the those that, by dong just a little, make it a positive experience for both sides of the equation.

Updated Bling: Revisiting the Fleegle Beader

Published on July 13, 2016July 13, 2016 by KVPostsLeave a comment

Having a strong preference for one approach over another may have just as much to do with what one knows and is comfortable with as with which is actually the better approach.

A few years ago I took a my first introduction to knitting with beads class. We tried three different methods for placing beads: a crochet hook, a Fleegle Beader, and SuperFloss. I was not an instant success. Straight out of the gate I shredded the heck out of my yarn with the Fleegle Beader, accidentally used the floppy end instead of the stiff end on the SuperFloss, and eventually, after much struggle, managed some success with the crochet hook. At the end of the class I was firmly in the crochet hook camp.

Back in the real world, facing my first project with beads, I found out the hard way that a crochet hook can do some yarn shredding too. That led to blaming the tool, not the user, and I sought to resolve the issue by ordering hooks in various different brands and sizes. In the meantime, a YouTube search showed me the error of my ways with the SuperFloss and, lo and behold, if I used the correct end the floss method actually worked just fine with no damage to the yarn. Possibly I was just as mistaken about the Fleegle Beader as I was with the SuperFloss, I ordered one of those as well. What I did not realize then, but know now, is the hole size can vary greatly from one brand of beads to the next, and even from one bead to the next within a brand or within a single tube. It is not just having tools that brings success, it is all about learning how to use tools correctly and understanding the materials I am working with. My take on all of these tools is summed up in Placing Beads in Knitting. So many people swear by the Beader I thought it deserved to be taken for another spin. After all, everything feels awkward at first…

Being the proud owner of 2 sizes of Fleegle Beaders–and facing a large number of bead placements on the Amulet Shawl by Helen Stewart–I decided to give the Fleegle Beader a second chance. It was slow going at first, playing with different angles and approaches, until I found something that worked fairly comfortable with the larger 1.30 size. All was going swimmingly until I switched from Miyuki beads to Toho beads and found that the holes in the Toho beads were somewhat smaller and somewhat less regular. At first I thought I had mistakingly grabbed Toho 8/0 beads instead of 6/0, but no, they were the same 6/0 size as the Miyuki. In spite of having worked out a method for consistently placing beads without damaging the yarn with the Miyuki’s, I was back to square one with the Toho beads.

A few tight beads and shredded stitches later, I switched down to the smaller 1.0 size and that helped a bit. Unfortunately some of the beads were still too tight; they would fit onto the shaft but were too small to accommodate the shaft of the Beader plus the strands of yarn. I played around with different methods again and, although I had to toss a few beads aside that were too tight, I did come up with a method that worked pretty well. It goes as follows:

Carefully draw the stitch from the LH needle with the hook on the Fleegle Beader
Position the groove of the Beader facing up
Position the stitch in front of (not on) the sharp tip of the hook
Pinch the yarn tightly below the Beader and pull it down so it is taut
Push the bead up the shaft, over the yarn, and off the end of the Beader
Drop the bead down onto the remainder of the stitch held below the Beader
Return the stitch to the LH needle
Knit the stitch above the bead unless instructed otherwise
Note: stitch is worked from the LH needle if the bead is placed before doing the stitch, from the RH needle if placing bead after doing the stitch
A demonstration of this method is on the video An Accidentally Discovered Method for Using the Fleegle Beader

Pinching and tightening the stitch makes the yarn taught and compact, allowing more wiggle room for the bead to slide off the Beader and onto the stitch. I was able to hold it in my hand while I knit, saving me the extra hand motions of putting it down and picking it up, but there was one problem. With the cap off the top of the Beader, I had to be careful to not inadvertently push the beads off the Beader. Stopping to pick up beads was not an added efficiency.

After a fair amount of practice, I can understand why Fleegle Beaders are so popular with some knitters. With beads stored on the shaft, it really was the fastest method for placing beads of all the methods I tried. Overcoming my reluctance to revisit it was worthwhile, eventually I did find a method that works fairly well for me. Going forward I will use the Fleegle Beader when I have projects with lots and lots of beads. For mobile projects, I will still stick with the more portable SuperFloss method on the road for carrying and placing beads on the road. For projects with just a few beads here and there, I will probably just use the simple and easy crochet hook method.

In the end I am glad I kept an open mind and gave the Fleegle Beader a second chance. It will be another useful tool in my bag of tricks.

An aside: Using a thin wire shaped like a V was discussed in the Amulet Shawl KAL thread and I did give it a try. For those who do not have the tools, it is worth trying, but I do think the tools I have work better for me. As with anything, it is all a matter of personal preference. It is certainly easier on the pocketbook.

Bling! Placing Beads in Knitting

Published on July 8, 2016July 9, 2016 by KVPosts1 Comment

Like stars in the still and quiet sky, bright sparkly beads sprinkle a bit of bling across soft fibery textures. Adding a bit of glimmer and glam to knitting is fun, and not nearly so difficult as it looks. Of course, feel free to tell whomever asks that it was really, really hard and they should be in awe of both you and your finished project.

Videos associated with this post: Placing Beads on Knitting Part I and Placing Beads on Knitting Part II.

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Knitting With Beads

There are two basic approaches for knitting with beads. One is to pre-string the beads: all the beads are placed on the yarn before knitting with beads begins. The beads ride on the yarn and can be moved into place either on or between stitches. The big “Ugh!”is that if you do not count and add enough beads in advance, you will need to break the yarn to add more beads. Although I mention it here, I will not be covering knitting with pre-strung beads in this post. There are a lot of interesting and creative things that can be done with pre-strung beads so it can be worthwhile to learn more about it.

The second and more commonly used approach–and the one I will be discussing in this post–is placing beads: each bead is individually placed on a stitch as indicated in the pattern. The pattern will tell you whether to place the bead before or after knitting the stitch, usually it is before knitting the stitch. If it is not specified, I knit the stitch after the bead has been placed.

More often than not the pattern instruction will be “PB” for “place bead” which means, place a bead on the upcoming stitch and knit it after the bead has been placed. In this case–after executing the “PB” instruction–the bead rests between the stitch from the row below and the newly knit stitch on the current row. If the instruction is to knit the stitch before placing the bead, the bead rests above the stitch on the current row and is not locked in until it is worked on the subsequent row. I think the bead is more firmly held in place between the two stitches when it is placed after knitting the stitch on the current row and locked in place on the next row. Either way the bead is between two stitches; one above it and one below it. The difference is, place bead then knit puts the bead between the stitch from the row below and the current row while the knit then place bead puts the the bead between the stitch on the current row and the stitch on the subsequent row. Picture an hourglass figure with a tight belt, that is the yarn with a placed bead on it pinching the yarn between the stitch below and the stitch above.

For placing the beads, there are a few different methods including a small crochet hook, a Fleegle Beader, or SuperFloss. Each method is described below, but first there are a few things to know about beads and some materials that are helpful for knitting with beads.

Materials for Knitting with Beads

See the Placing Beads on Knitting Part I video for more about materials and preparing to knit with beads.

I like to use 6/0 size beads for fingering weight yarn as well as for a heavy lace or light sport weight. For a finer lace, I like to use 8/0 beads. The bead should have a large enough hole to slip onto the yarn, remembering that when placing a bead on a stitch that there are two strands of yarn being fed through the hole. I have used many types of beads and have found that Miyaki and Toho beads have been very consistent in their hole sizes. I have used some beautiful Czech glass beads that had some inconsistencies in the sizes, some were more of a struggle to place than others.

It is useful to have a beading board to hold the beads and tools. A tray will also work,but if using a tray it is helpful to have a foam or soft cloth to help keep the beads from escaping. The sound of tiny beads clattering in the vacuum is not my favorite tune.

Beads are picked up one at a time with a crochet hook but are preloaded onto a Fleegle Beader. There is a bent end on the Fleegle Beader for picking up beads individually or they can be loaded by using a bead spinner. I am not very successful with my bead spinner, it will probably end up on the Freebie table at the next knitting retreat, but some people really like using a bead spinner to speed up the task. Beads can be picked up one-by-one with the stiff end of the SuperFloss or strung onto the SuperFloss using a Dental floss threader. I use a clip on the long smooth end of the floss to hold the beads in place, but the end can be knotted or something can be tied to the end to keep the beads from falling off.

See “Tools of the Trade” at the end of this post for a list of materials.

Methods for Placing Beads

See the Placing Beads on Knitting Part II video for demonstrations and more about methods for placing beads.

For the crochet hook method, you need a very fine hook that is small enough to insert into the bead; a much smaller size hook than you would use if you were crocheting with the yarn. I like to use the largest size possible. Size 4 (1.25 mm) works for most 6/0 beads, Size 2 (1.5 mm) worked for Miyaki and Toho but not for my Czech glass beads, and Size 0 (1.75 mm) was too large for all my beads. Another option is a Fleegle Beader that has a little sharp hook on one end. The original Beader was 1.0 mm and they later added a 1.3 mm, which is bit better for fingering weight yarns. Both of these options require care, the fine hooks can shred the yarn when placing the bead, but it can be faster than the dental floss method.

The dental floss method allows you to string a lot of the beads on the floss and have them at the ready, but it can be a bit slower and fiddly. On the plus side, it is the most gentle way to put the beads on the work. I have never had yarn shred with this method, unlike with a crochet hook or Fleegle beader. All of these work for placing a bead on the yarn, but each has its pros and cons.

Whichever method you choose, the “PB” (place bead) instruction is executed in basically the same way. Place the bead on the stitch on the LH needle, remove the stitch to place the bead, slide the bead down to expose the loop, and return the stitch to the LH needle. Knit the stitch. Beaded stitch is now on the RH needle with a stitch below it and a stitch above it locking it into place. If you are knitting a pattern with instructions for placing beads but are opting not to use beads, treat a “PB” instruction as a “K1”.

If instructed to knit first then place the bead, knit the next stitch on the LH needle, place the bead on the stitch on the RH needle (I slip the knit stitch back to the LH needle purl wise to add the bead on that needle just because I am more accustomed to beading that way), remove the stitch to place the bead, slide the bead down to expose the loop, and return the stitch to the RH needle. Beaded stitch is now on the RH needle with a stitch below it but will not have a stitch above it locking it into place until the next row is worked.

All of these methods work for placing a bead on the yarn, but each has its pros and cons.

Fleegle Beader

Quick to use
Stores beads on shaft
Sharp edge can shred yarn
Hint: Push bead onto yarn, do not pull yarn through bead

Crochet Hook

Quick to use
Fine head is smaller than yarn, can shred the yarn
Can be somewhat gentler than the Fleegle Beader
Does not store beads, beads have to be picked up one at a time
Hint: Push bead onto yarn, do not pull yarn through bead

SuperFloss

Best for travel/mobile knitting
Works well with uneven hole sizes in beads
Gentlest for delicate yarn, does not shred yarn
Beads are stored on the floss
Can be fiddly and slow but fewer problems with escaping beads and damaged yarn
Has 3 sections with different purposes: a long thin section (holds beads), fuzzy section (holds bead to be worked), short stiff section (used to place bead onto stitch)
Can use a dental floss threader to add several beads at once to the floss
Needs to be secured at the end of the thin section: use a clip, tie on a stitch marker, or tie secure knot to keep beads from sliding off the end

Each method has its cheerleaders but the correct method to use is the one that is the most comfortable and convenient; in the end a placed bead looks like a placed bead so there is no right or wrong choice. In my case, I have used the crochet hook when there are not too many beads or I want to pick up the pace. I prefer the SuperFloss when I have fussy or fine yarn, and I certainly prefer it when I am traveling or visiting someone. For mobile knitting, all I need to do is bring a pre-threaded strand of floss along with me and can leave all the other tools behind. The Fleegle Beader and I are still learning to get along, but I definitely see how this would be the method of choice for many given that the beads conveniently stored on the shaft. Let me put it this way, I really, really want to like it and have not given up on our relationship yet.

See Placing Beads on Knitting Part I and Part II for more information and demonstrations.

Resources

See “Tools of the Trade” below for a list of materials mentioned in this post. Materials can be purchased from online merchants as well as from specialty shops, big box stores, and local yarn shops. I found my Fleegle Beaders on Etsy and Miss Babs. Miyuki and Toho beads are sometimes sold at yarn shops, there are many excellent online bead shops although I have mostly purchased them through Amazon partners and Loopy Ewe. If you know of a good online resource for beads, feel free to leave a comment.

Tools of the Trade

Beads (Miyaki and Toho consistent brands, many other nice options available in stores and online) Size 6/0 for heavy lace, fingering, and light sport weights or size 8/0 for lace and light fingering
Beading board or foam/soft fabric square on tray for containing beads and tools
Dental Floss Threader (GUM, other brands available) for threading beads onto SuperFloss or yarn if doing pre-strung beading
Super Floss (Oral B, other brands available) for holding and placing beads
Wonder Clips (Clover, other brands available) for holding beads in place on SuperFloss
Fleegle Beader for holding or placing beads. Available in the original 1.0 mm or 1.3 mm, which is better for fingering
Small Crochet hook for placing beads: Size 8 (.90 mm) works for 6/0 and 8/0 beads, Size 4 (1.25 mm) works for most 6/0 beads, Size 2 (1.5 mm) worked for Miyaki but not for my Czech glass beads, and Size 0 (1.75 mm) was too large for all my beads

On Edge

Published on July 1, 2016July 1, 2016 by KVPosts2 Comments

When one first learns to cook recipes are followed to the letter. With a little more experience–and hopefully a bit more skill–a cook adds a bit less salt, substitutes this herb for that, begins to pinch, pour, and dash without the use of measuring implements, and dares to improvise. Recipes are a starting point; a source for ideas and guidance. Often times I find myself looking at several recipes and cooking a dish using a combination of them, taking the best from each.

A knitting pattern is a recipe. It can be followed exactly or it can be a starting point; a pattern written by a trusted designer is always an excellent starting point. No doubt when designing for others an effort is made to make things as simple to do, easy to follow, and uncomplicated as possible. But sometimes simplicity comes at a cost, a more difficult and complicated approach may be the preferred approach. Or sometimes a pattern is a perfect match for what a knitter has in mind except for one or two details. There are just times when I want to trust my instincts, jump off the path, and travel in my own direction.

Helen Stewart is one of my favorite designers for straight-forward, easy to knit patterns that yield beautiful results. I am currently knitting one of her golden oldies, the Pebble Beach Shawl, for a summer knitting challenge after having just finished the Talisman, the first shawl from her Shawl Society series. The two shawls are very similar in set-up and construction. The Talisman starts with a backwards loop cast on and the Pebble Beach with a simple cast on at the top edge but otherwise are essentially the same. I had followed the instructions as written for the Talisman and was uncomfortable the entire time I was knitting it; the top seemed too tight, bunched up, and puckered.

At the time I kept thinking, “I should have done a garter tab.” I also was concerned with the tightness of the edge, usually something I do not have trouble with. A friend reminded me of a trick she had learned on the Melanie Berg On the Spice Market Shawl: for adding ease to an edge, add a yarn over on the right side and drop the yarn over on the wrong side. After being reminded, I began doing the extra yarn overs on each right side edge and within a row or two it was if the tense work exhaled, stretched, yawned, and relaxed for a nap. Although the miracle of blocking can fix a lot of ills, I was concerned the entire time that I was knitting that blocking magic would not be enough. In the end–although the top edge where there were no added yarn overs looks thin and tight–the Talisman came out okay. But just okay, it does not look as smooth at the top as a garter tab edge would have.

Like a cook who wants less salt but more spice, I added to suit my own taste. Of course I cannot speak for all designers, but I have asked some designers if they minded knitters making modifications and all have graciously said they do not mind at all. Perhaps they are curious to see how their original vision evolves when knitters deviate from their basic recipes. Different fibers, weights, and colors alone can make a difference, but when hundreds of knitters get creative–adding their own pinch of seasonings–it results in some interesting and even inspiring variations on a theme.

The Dreaded Garter Tab

For those of you who have not done a garter tab, the instructions seem outright bizarre and make no sense until you have done it a few times. It is just one of those things in knitting where, by following the instructions line-by-line, it just works. Trust to the force. Basically all one is doing with a garter tab is creating the first few stitches in the top border of the shawl, a little rectangular starting point. It is worth the effort, a garter tab creates the foundation for a smooth edge.

A garter tab starts with casting on the number of stitches that will be on the shawl edge. The cast on can be a garden-variety cast on, such as a long tail, or it can be a provisional cast on. Knit garter rows until there are the same number of garter ridges as cast on stitches, stitches will be picked up using the purl bumps from those garter ridges. Stitches are also picked up from the cast on edge. Picking up stitches using a provisional cast on is somewhat neater but picking up from a regular cast on works too, the difference is not too noticeable. Knit all the picked up stitches and, presto change-o, a garter tab is formed.

Hints. I like to start a garter tab with DPNs so I do not have to wrestle with a dangling cord while fiddling with such a tiny construction. For a provisional cast on, I like to use a crochet cast on with a contrasting yarn, adding several extra chains with a long loop through the last chain to remember which end to unravel. Obviously a tightly twisted yarn in a contrasting color is better than a soft fuzzy yarn in a similar color for a provisional cast on, but I tend to grab whatever is available without much concern over matching the weight and fiber content. When picking up stitches from garter rows, be careful to not pick up the the purl bump immediately below the needle as that will distort the stitch that is on the needle. I learned an easy way to pick up stitches on a garter tab in a Stephen West class and made a video so I would not forget his pearls of wisdom.

Substituting a Garter Tab in the Pebble Beach and Talisman

A basic formula for a garter tab is, cast on the same number of stitches as a the border (I use a provisional cast on, but it is a matter of preference), knit enough rows to form the same number of garter ridges as the border, turn and pick up that number of stitches, and finally turn, pick up, and knit the stitches from the cast on edge. There will be 3 times as many stitches on the needle as stitches on the border.

The Pebble Beach and the Talisman have a 3 stitch border. For the Pebble Beach I substituted the pattern instructions for the set-up with a garter tab by doing the following:

Reminder: my video for Stephen West’s easy way to pick up stitches in a garter tab shows a simple way to pick up stitches in a garter tab.

Cast on 3 stitches (optional: use provisional cast on). Knit until there are 3 garter ridges (about 7 rows). Turn and pick up 3 stitches from purl bumps on the garter ridges, knit picked up stitches, turn and pick up 3 stitches from border, knit picked up stitches. (9 stitches)
Row 1 (WS): K3, YO, K3, YO, K3 (11 stitches)
Skip Rows 1-4 of pattern instructions
Start pattern with Row 5 (RS)

I did not do a garter tab in Talisman, nor did I swatch and test it, but substituting these instructions for Rows 1-4 and starting the pattern with Row 5 should work in the same way as it did with the Pebble Beach. I did swatch and test the garter tab for setting up the medium size Pebble Beach. Although it is still a work in progress and has not been washed and blocked, I am much happier with the top edge on the modified Pebble Beach than I was with the Talisman.

Up Tight and On Edge

Modifications for creating a more relaxed edge are simple and are the same for both shawls; it really made the difference between having a puckered and tight edge and having a smooth and relaxed edge. Blocking the top edge of the Talisman was a chore but was much easier when I reached the part where I had added the modifications for the ease. Modifications are as follows:

RS Rows: K3, YO, KYOK . . . [row instructions as written] . . . KYOK, YO, K3
WS: K2, P1, Drop YO, YO . . . [row instructions as written] . . . Drop YO, YO, P1, K2

It is a bit cludgey on the wrong side as you are dropping a YO immediately before adding a YO, but both YOs are necessary. The dropped YO is what gives the row ease and the added YO is what is used for the foundation of the K-YO-K increases on the right side rows. I also found that the first YO on the WS was obvious to see and drop, but with the distortion from the K-YO-K from the row below, the final YO to drop was a bit harder to see. It was a matter of remembering to always drop a YO before adding a YO on the WS and, like with any pattern, after I had done it row after row after row it became automatic. Just remember, at the start of the row to drop the 4th stitch (the YO from the previous row) and add a new YO and, at the other end, to drop the 4th stitch (YO) from the end and add a new YO before the final 3 stitches.

In the Books and in the Works
The Pebble Beach is still on the needles but already I can see a smooth top and a more open and relaxed edge. The Talisman came out well enough, but were I to do it again I would definitely start with the garter tab and add the modification to ease the edges. A tasty enough dish, but it needed a dash of salt and a pinch of spice to taste.